The moonless sky was full of constellations, straight from the heavens
to the horizon. The air was heavy with the pleasant smell of sea mixed with
nocturnal blooms of the surrounding foliage. Soft, cool sand shifted under my
feet as I slogged down the beach to the waiting banca. All these I burned in memory for recall at a
later time.
Perhaps while stuck in traffic under the sweltering heat and acrid air
of the city.
The heavy load of fishing tackle I carried made me feel like a warrior
geared for battle. Over-eagerness and fear of being ill-equipped overcomes even
the most veteran of anglers when preparing. The urge is at its peak the night
before leaving. Whatever resolve one has to pack light and stick to essentials
crumbles and turns into a mad dash to cram everything into the tackle box.
Still, the morning after, the aching feeling that you left something important
(your flying gaff…just in case that Marlin suddenly materializes) still
lingers…
Fernando the boatman was already there moving about the banca doing
the countless preparations needed before heading out to sea. This was just a
front, a facade to cover his impatience. I knew the boat had been ready a full
hour before. I was late – but what did you expect from a man sleepless from
excitement? I only survived the long
drive by filling up on the strongest brew available at every gas stop along the
way. This was another mistake I knew I’d have to recompense. A full bladder on an ocean of water is
intolerable torture, a situation sure to arise every half hour.
Fernando trotted up and relieved me of my tackle. Rods and gaff went
to the hollow at the bow; my tackle bag amidships at my feet; food, water and
everything else fit in the stern behind the motor. This distribution of weight
is critical in a craft as small as a banca, and the boatman makes sure that the
boat is on even keel before launch. Failure in his part may mean we take a much
undesired swim miles from terra firma.
The banca itself is a marvel. No sane salt-blooded sailor used to the high
freeboard and apparent safety of big mono hulled crafts would venture a trip to
the big blue in this matchstick. Roughly the shape of a peapod and not much
bigger, its hull is made up of ¼ inch marine plywood (I’ve seen small jewelry
boxes with thicker sides). The engine is usually a 2-stroke affair not far
removed from the ones used to power lawnmowers. Its extreme reliability is only
rivaled by the racket it makes. Running at full bore, this motor
sounds like a .50cal. machinegun firing inches from your head. Why they remove
the muffler is a puzzle to this day. Freeboard is so low you can touch the sea
by reaching down from the gunwale without your elbow ever leaving the boat. Outriggers
of bamboo spread out port and starboard bound with heavy mono to crossbeams
(batangan) which are in turn lashed to thwarts fore and aft. These concessions
to the otherwise streamlined shape are needed for stability especially when
landlubbers like me are on board. The secret to the boat’s strength lies below
the waterline. Its keel is one continuous solid piece of hand hewn hardwood. The
backbone that holds everything together.
Fernando was my age but years of sun and salt had weathered his face
to a much older set. Generations of seafarers lay behind him. He had three
children and a wife who’d always wait for his arrival at sunset by the beach. I
thought this was because of the excitement of the catch, until I found out that
every year, the sea claimed at least one fisherman’s life. They stood there
with a prayer in their hearts, waiting for a glimpse of their loved one’s safe
return.
Fernando and I had a lot and little in common. The love of the sea and
everything that swims in it, the thrill of hooking and the fight forthwith – we
craved these.
We, however, were different. I lived in the city and navigated the
concrete byways. The closest I got to water was when I needed to cross a
bridge. The most danger I’d ever be in was a fender bender. He, on the other
hand faced life taking risks every day. Being on the ocean at the mercy of
Mother Nature and the old (much older than he, according to him) Briggs and
Stratton engine, life could be lost at the blink of an eye. Although quiet by
nature, Fernando was always ready to answer my queries about why things were
such in the sea. His wisdom about everything salt and with fins amazed me, but
I was aware that to know less was an error that could take one on the fast
train to meet his maker. He in turn was amazed by the gadgets I brought on
board. He marvelled at the lures and reels but spoke with disdain of the GPS.
He never relied on anything that ran on batteries, not when lives depended on
it. For him, dead reckoning and the good ol’ magnetic compass was all he
needed. Fishing for me was a break from
life, to him it was life.
We pushed off. The act of helping lift the banca off the
sticky sand together was a tradition, a start of a journey of equals. The
engine roared to life on the first pull, a good sign for the ever-superstitious
clan of fishermen. We ran through the mirrored calm of pre morning darkness,
startled flying fish ever so often fleeing our bow wave.
We reached the first reef as
the sun broke over the mountains in the east. Fernando slowed the boat as I
dropped the plugs over the side. We had line out about one hundred feet long on
each side, the right side longer by a few feet to prevent tangling. When the reel’s clickers were set, Fernando
raised speed to seven knots. I poured some of my drinking water over the two
reels, a sort of blessing and with the practical purpose of lubricating the
line. We trolled the reef’s edge, moving
seaward when the reef rose and back close again as it fell. The engine’s throb
lulled me to sleep. An hour later, I was awakened by the complaining ratchet of
the starboard reel. Line was zipping out spraying fine droplets of water,
miniature diamonds in the early morning sun.
I struggled to pull the rod out, the heavy set drag held the butt firm
in the makeshift holder. I pointed seaward, and Fernando pulled on the tiller,
turning the boat. I got a moment of slack and in an instant, I had the rod out
and tucked on my hip. The fish shook its head before boring for the deep. “Talakitok,
Mamsa!” I shouted to Fernando. He nodded, throttling down and angling the boat
out keeping an eye on the line.
The dance began. The fish would take line and I’d feel its power
through my rod and the whir of the reel’s spool as its drag gave in to the force.
The fish would stop, winded, and I would raise the rod and reel down to gain
line. A mild morning breeze came up and hummed on the taut mono. The fish
sounded again. I wasn’t worried, Fernando had steered us away from the shallow
reef were the brute could have broken us off on the sharp coral heads.
Five more runs – each shorter than the last – then finally I felt the
fish follow my lead. A few more pumps and I saw the familiar flash of a jack on
its side. The fighter made one last run at boat side, pulling line beneath the
keel. I stuck the rod into the water to
clear the keel and pumped him up again.
The fish lay there just beneath the surface exhausted from its efforts.
I too paused for a while to take in a few deep breaths we gave our all and both
got winded. Fernando handed me the gaff, I lifted the magnificent fish and a
good part of the sea into the banka. I took my knife and cut its gill filaments
– to dispatch a fish with haste is to show it respect. I thanked our creator
for the blessing and the fish for the opportunity and its sacrifice.
Fernando was smiling, proud of our triumph. We would share this trophy
as was our tradition and has been as such for hunter-gatherers since time immemorial
“Ayos!” I shouted with a thumb’s up wave. I motioned towards shore;
this would have to do for the day. The concrete byways demanded my return.
Already, I was dreaming of my next trip…
Iba, Zambales.
Bong
Bong
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